Matt, Glenn, and I planned to climb the east ridge of Mt. Bancroft on May 11. Our plan was to climb up to a high camp at the base of the ridge around 11,700 feet and camp Saturday night and then climb Sunday morning.
Matt and I headed out ahead of Glenn with the idea that we would meet up at the high camp. As Matt and I climbed near 11,000 feet, the wind was ridiculous. As we gained elevation below the high camp destination, the wind became even fiercer. On several occasions I was actually spun around and knocked down! I estimated the gusts between 60 and 70 miles per hour based upon previous experience with a wind gauge.
After searching futilely for a sheltered place to set up the tent, we retreated back into the trees down lower to establish camp. Glenn rolled into camp not long after we starting setting up the tent.
On Sunday morning the wind was still ripping the upper mountain, and we could see huge plumes of snow shooting off the ridges. The climb was a no-go. We got a great workout with heavy packs, but did not get to summit. The mountain will still be there when the wind is less hazardous.
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